Climb Romsdalshorn - North Wall and Halls Renne

A trip to Romsdalshorn is an experience you will never forget.
This is one of those peaks that you can see clearly from the valley, and its character almost begs you to be climbed.
Even if you have no experience with climbing, this seemingly inaccessible peak can become a reality – together with a certified peak guide, you can, with good physical condition and a little bit of ice in your stomach, relatively "easily" stand on the top.

Below you will find a description of how a guided tour to Romsdalshorn takes place, either via Nordveggen (the most used route) or Halls Renne , the old normal route.

Start of the day

We start early with a meeting down in the valley (Isfjorden) to go over form, equipment, risks and the day's plan.

We then drive into Vengedalen , where we follow the road all the way to the end and park at the starting point of the trip.

Tour description North Wall
The approach takes about 1–1.5 hours on a steep path before we reach Gapet , where the view over Romsdalen is fantastic. Here we take a short break, eat and drink, and get ready for the climb with a harness and helmet.

The first two pitches are easy and provide a good introduction to how rope layering works. Then the wall gets steeper, and we enter the last 4–5 pitches. This is where the climbing really begins, and we have to use the good holds available to move upwards as efficiently as possible. Climbing shoes are not necessary – a slightly stiffer mountain boot works just fine, as the holds are large and good (as long as you choose the right line!).

We encounter difficulty levels of up to 4/4+ on the first two steeper rope lengths, before it settles down again and becomes easier climbing on the last three rope lengths towards the top.

On a guided tour, you don't have to think about anything other than climbing and following the instructions – the guide handles all belaying, rope work and safety, so you can focus on your own physical and mental performance.

The climb takes a total of about 2–3 hours and consists of 6–7 rope lengths before we stand on the large plateau top with a view of Trollveggen, Romsdalen, Vengetind and the surrounding peaks.

After a short break, we start the 6 airy rappels down from the top – an experience in itself. Here it is an advantage to be comfortable with heights. The guide manages safety, while you control the rappel and the pace down.

Once down, we follow the steep path back, and we are usually at the car 6–8 hours after starting.
The feeling of having completed this adventure often comes creeping in on the way to a well-deserved ice cream in Åndalsnes.

Tour description – Halls Renne

We start at the same parking lot as for Nordveggen, but take off early on another, equally steep path. This one winds up the mountainside towards what looks like a large, bright spot in the mountain.

Halls Renne has a slightly different character than Nordveggen.
The approach is shorter, and we get started with the climbing equipment faster – always a good feeling.

The climb is less steep and consists of several, but shorter, climbing passages. This gives a feeling of more continuous movement up the mountainside – in some places you walk without using your hands, in other places you climb short rope lengths. Halls Renne is a varied and beautiful hike, and although it can be experienced as a “longer” line, it often goes a little faster in terms of time.

The most difficult part comes towards the end, inside the chute itself, where we climb a passage graded 4. Then we reach a small crevice with a view of Trollveggen, before we follow an exposed ridge formation up to the top of Romsdalshorn.

The return journey follows the same rappel route as the North Wall – 6 aerial rappels before we are back on the ground.
This trip usually takes 6–7 hours in total.

Ready for an adventure?

If this sounds like something for you, just get in touch – and we'll find a plan that suits you.