Dream diedret, Store Vengetind

June 28

The Vengetind traverse — South and Great Vengetind seen from the Vengetind traverse.

A few days ago we got to kickstart the 2026 summer season with a trip up to Store Vengetind itself via the classic and spectacular Drømmediederet route. A fantastic day in alpine terrain – and a trip we really recommend for slightly more experienced mountaineers!
Read more about a guided tour to the Great Vengetind army.
Our trip went via Vesteggen , up Drømmediederet , and back through Vestgjelet .

Below is a short summary of the day and a guided tour to the top of Store Vengetind via Drømmedidret.

Brief summary of the day – guided tour to Store Vengetind via Drømmediederet

We started relatively early from the parking lot in Vengedalen and followed the steep climb up to the start of Vesteggen (just to the left before the waterfall in Vestgjelet). After a little over an hour we took a short break for snacks and to touch up the rope – the terrain is already so exposed here that ropes are absolutely necessary.

We then followed the clear ridge formation on Vesteggen, with a steady mix of scrambling and climbing, towards the steep section where the Drømmediederet itself begins. The approach is long and technical, and efficiency is key to keeping to the time frame. We used a combination of short ropes and rope lengths for almost an hour and a half before we stood at the entrance to the dihedral. This section should not be underestimated – ropes are definitely recommended.

Arrive at the foot of the diedre when it's time to fill up with energy, a little more clothes and then tackle the fantastically fine climbing that awaits you in the big diedre.
After a slightly tricky roof traverse, 2 rope lengths await with nice jamming in the died before we turn off back towards Vesteggen and the famous Knortesvaet.
In total, we climb 6-7 rope lengths before again reaching a flatter ridge formation of the west edge a little below the summit. Here we traverse out to the normal road and the short section to the top of Store Vengetind. We have used approximately 6 ½ hours in total.
The view is of course incredible, it is after all the highest peak in the area!
After another short lunch break, we decide to use the snow-filled Vestgjelet before we can more quickly (and more gently) descend the approximately 1,400 altitude meters back to the car.
It is reached by climbing down a bit of Østeggen before reaching the "Galleriet", which is perhaps one of the world's most beautiful stairs?
Once at the top of Vestgjelet, it was just a matter of throwing on the crampons and taking out the ice ax before then easily shooting down this otherwise classic ski.
The return was quick and painless and we were able to roll back to the car after only 8 hours 20 minutes. A good day simply.

The return via Vestgjelet

After a short lunch break, we chose to use the snow-filled Vestgjelet for a faster and more gentle return down the approximately 1400 meters of altitude back to the car. To get there, you climb down a bit of Østeggen until you reach Galleriet – perhaps one of the world's most beautiful trails.

Once at the top of Vestgjelet, all we had to do was put on crampons, find our ice axe and “slide” down this otherwise classic ski route. The return trip was quick and painless, and we were back at the car after a total of 8 hours and 20 minutes .

A really good day in the mountains.

See more from the trip on Instagram: http://instagram.com/p/DZu-oKHIiQ2/